Cartagena Tour Stops

     We spent parts of four days in Cartagena, so we made lots of touring stops with our guide plus our local guide. These will be a few of our touring stops.

     Our first stop on our first full day in Cartagena was the Castle of San Felipe or the San Felipe Fortress. It was built on a hill for protection by the Spaniards. It was the largest fortress built by the Spanish on mainland South America, and was needed to protect the wealthy colonial trade in Cartagena. The fortress was only for protection from a 'land attack', not for protection from water attacks. The Spanish had three other defenses built for water attacks.

     The construction of the fortress started in 1536 but was interrupted by the French, who attacked the city. The French captured Cartagena but then died from diseases within a month of their victory, according to our local guide. The fortress was expanded in 1639 and again in 1657. It was built by African slave labor under Spanish supervision during the Colonial era. This fortress was involved in several battles between the late 17th to early 19th centuries, against European powers. It was named in honor of Philip IV of Spain.

     The castle is a massive structure, and I couldn't really capture it in a photo as I was too close. It covers the entire hill in stone. The castle is also riddled with tunnels, designed to move men and materials through the fort to where needed and to protect the soldiers. We also were treated to some excellent views from the top of the fort's walls. 

     Some tour stops were not so much tour stops as places that some of the locals hang out, waiting for the arrival of tourists. This happened multiple times throughout Old Town. We enjoyed each encounter since after all, we were tourists.

     We were at a place right across from the Caribbean Sea, waiting for a bus, when our guide treated us to an unscheduled visit. It was a chocolate shop, and the owner showed us what they do to make their chocolate candy. He showed us all the steps and gave us samples, but hey, he had me after reading the sign out in front of his shop.

     After lunch on this day, we visited the Emerald Museum for an hour and a half. A person made a detailed presentation to us, from the emerald mining right through to their emerald store. Vicky managed to select four pairs of earrings to purchase, then called me over to pay for them. When the clerk told me it would be $ Five Million pesos, I was a bit taken aback. Our guide, Ernesto, came over and consoled me. He kept telling me, "Bill, it's only pesos, not dollars."

     The Church of San Pedro Claver is an iconic church known for its architectural beauty as well as for its historical and spiritual significance. Its importance is directly tied to the life and work of Saint Peter Claver. He was known as the "Apostle of the Slaves." His remains are within the church. Inside the church, it was very nice but much simpler than many other churches and I liked the look and feel of it very much.

     The Church of Santo Domingo is the oldest church in Cartagena and was built in the 16th century. Our guide said that construction lasted from 1533 to 1811, so a long time. This was due to limited resources and sporadic funding. The church was founded by Dominican friars and was the center for the Dominican missionary work. This church is known for its twisted bell tower, which legend says was the work of the devil in an attempt to destroy the church. A good architect or builder might argue that it has to do with construction issues, but there you go.

     Perhaps my most curious issue with this church is the fact that there is a Botero sculpture right in front of it. The sculpture is of a naked woman, and she is facing the church. You can see her on the lower left corner. Our guides, who almost always had an answer for everything, had no answer for why this statue was where it was.

     Parks and statues were a definite part of Cartagena. This is Simone Bolivar Park in Simone Bolivar Square. It has some major tourist attractions surrounding it including the Cathedral of Cartagena, the Old Government offices, the Palace of Inquisition, the historical museum of Cartagena, and the Naval Museum.

     A good deal of the old town area had that great colonial look and feel. Parts of it reminded me a little of being in New Orleans. There were lots of restaurants, bars, music, and a party atmosphere.

     Cartagena's history is intertwined with the Caribbean which includes Cuba. They share some indigenous roots, colonial trade networks, and were both involved with the transatlantic slave trade. Cuba was another key hub in the Spanish colonial trade for both goods and people.

     So I shouldn't have been surprised to find this building in old town. You can see that it says 'Havana' over the door and at the very top is '1929.' The building is currently under re-construction. 

Cartagena in the Evening

     The heat and humidity in Cartagena were challenging for us. We never missed a walk or anything else, but we felt a bit rundown during the day. But in the evening, it was beautiful in Cartagena. On this evening, we took a good long walk into the Gethsemani neighborhood and Old Town. I would say that the whole area was much livelier and busier in the evening. Cartagena also looked very nice under the fading sunlight and their evening lights.

     Towards the end of our evening walk, we climbed up on the old city wall. We walked along the top of the wall for several hundred yards, at least. During that span, we saw three weddings in progress. We were roped out of the wedding areas, but I got a photo of one of the weddings. 

Getsemani Neighborhood

     We started this morning in Cartagena with a walk in the nearby Getsemani neighborhood. It's a short walk from old town, so not far from our hotel. Our local guide, Vicky, said this used to be an unsafe drug and sex area. The government tried unsuccessfully for years to get people to leave the area so they could fix it up. Finally, when the area was designated as a UNESCO Heritage area, people had to leave or clean up their houses. Some, of course, couldn't afford to fix up their places.

     Today, this area is safe and touristy. We walked the area and even got to go inside a couple of houses. The houses seemed small from the outside, but that's because they are very narrow, but they are also very deep, so their size is deceptive. I liked the insides of the houses we visited.

     Historically, this was a working-class neighborhood where the city's enslaved and free-Black communities lived. In more recent times, it has become a creative street art area, and a nightlife hub with hostels, rooftop bars, boutique hotels and lots of restaurants.

     The area is still mostly populated by local people. We saw a walking fruit stand vendor who pushed his cart from customer's door to customer's door. We saw kids playing in the streets. We saw street artists painting on the sidewalks. We saw a wide mix of local people here.

     For all our local guide told us about how old this neighborhood was, none of her words had the same impact as seeing some of the houses, like below.

     We walked past Well Square, which was where the people in this neighborhood used to go to get their water from the well in the square. The well is still there but no longer in use. You can also see a couple of neighborhood vendors.

     The next photo is inside one of the houses that we visited. From the outside, this was a blank, narrow, wall of a house. Inside, it was fantastic. The owner was a very nice woman who was very welcoming to us.

     Some streets were like walking in an art gallery.

     And some artists were out on the sidewalks working, and were very prolific.

     Some of us got into the art scene more than others of us...

Cartagena Party Time

     Cartagena is Colombia's most visited city with three million visitors a year. It has great history, some great Colombian architecture, and it sits on the Caribbean Sea. But it's also known for its party scene. Did we participate? Yes we did. I’ll explain just how we did that.

     On our last full day in Cartagena, it went like this. It was 9:30 in the morning. It was 87 degrees and probably 87 percent humidity. Our guide, Ernesto, could see that his group was fading a bit. So, he invited us into a grocery store and said he would buy us all a drink. I looked at the cold box right next to me and saw it was full of beer. I told Ernesto I'd like a beer, so he bought me one. Now I've never had a drink before noon in my life, but hey, I was in Cartagena and hot as blazes. Here, I'm standing on a corner, across from a church, at 9:30am, drinking a beer...and loving it! Can you feel the heat and humidity?

     Next, we boarded a Chiva Bus. They are a party bus, painted very colorfully with live music and you can dance and sing your way along their route. We had a long drive while listening to live music and singing and dancing along the way.

     You can see Vicky has joined the band, playing a ribbed, wooden flute. For my part, it was only 10:30 and I was on my second beer...but only to keep hydrated!

     The Chiva bus stopped and dropped us off at the beach where we took a Cumbia lesson in playing the drums and dancing. The dances evidently come from the 1600's and can include candles to light up the night. I gather they have been partying in Cartagena for a long time.

    The drumming and dancing were more fun than I expected. It was a group drumming lesson and the instructor was very good. I liked it a lot. The dancing was okay too, but the heat and humidity really made the dancing challenging.

     By the end of our dancing, we were ready to wade into the Caribbean and cool our heels off. This was our last day in Cartagena and we were feeling the heat.

We also thought we should add a little color to the Caribbean, as we tend to do.